Hanfu（汉服） 英语毕业论文.doc

Hanfu（汉服）*Contents：1.Brief Introduction of Hanfu -12. The Main Style of Hanfu-13. The History of Hanfu-34. The Disappearance of Hanfu-55. Today Peoples Negligence Misunderstanding to Hanfu-66. The Importance of Hanfu-67. The Reasons for Hanfu Decline-78. Revival Movement of Hanfu -8【Refrences】-101. Brief Introduction of Hanfu1.1 The Definition of HanfuHanfu or Han Chinese Clothing, also sometimes known as Hanzhuang, Huafu and sometimes referred in English sources simply as Silk Robe (especially those worn by the gentry) or Chinese Silk Robe refers to the historical dress of the Han Chinese people.1.2 The Features of HanfuThe main features of the Hanfu is Jiaoling Youren (cross collar and overlap the right collar to the left one), Yinkou Shudai (hide the buttons and tie the clothing with the pine) and Kuaxiu Dapao (Big robe and sleeves). The clothes do not use the buttons but pine , which gives people free and easy and elegant impression. Hanfu in these characteristics are significantly different from the clothes of the other ethnic groups.2. The Main Style of HanfuHan Chinese clothing, reflecting the cultural expression of the Han people, is part of the ritual system. The core of the Han civilization is cultural etiquette, and etiquetteculture is rooted in the Hanfu system. And Hanfu system is a whole dressed system, including clothing, caps, hair style, surface decoration, footwear, accessories, and so on.2.1 Hanfu ClothingHanfu clothing had changed and evolved with the fashion of the days since its commonly assumed beginnings in the Shang dynasty. Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simple in cuttings. Later garments incorporate multiple pieces with men commonly wearing pants and women commonly wearing skirts. Clothing for women usually accentuates the bodys natural curves through wrapping of upper garment lapels or binding with sashes at the waist.2.1.1 Informal WearTypes include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang or qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).Shenyi: a long full body garmentQuju: diagonal body wrappingZhiju: straight lapelsZhongyi or zhongdan: inner garments, mostly white cotton or silkShanqun: a short coat with a long skirtRuqun: a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirtKuzhe: a short coat with trousersZhiduo/zhishe: a Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and stitched sleeves2.1.2 Semi-formal WearA piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by the addition of the following appropriate items:Chang: a pleated skirtBixi: long front cloth panel attached from the waist beltZhaoshan: long open fronted coat2.1.3 Formal WearIn addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals (like important sacrifices or religious activities) or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).Formal garments may include:Xuanduan: a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tieDaopao/Fusha: Taoist/Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robesYuanlingshan, lanshan or panlingpao: closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dress2.1.4 Court DressCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.Court dress refers to:StylesDefinitionMianfureligious court dress of emperor, officials or nobilityBianfuceremonial military dress of emperor, officials or nobilityChaofua red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobilityGongfuformal court dress according to ranksChangfueveryday court dress2.2 Hats and HeadwearOn top of the Hanfu, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn. One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called jin for soft caps, mao for a stiff hats and guan for formal headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them, typically the putou, the wushamao, the si-fang pingding jin and the Zhuangzi jin. A typical hairpiece for women is a ji but there are more elaborate hairpieces. 蒋玉秋、王艺璇、陈锋： 汉服, 青岛出版社, 2008年1月3. The History of HanfuHanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. “Yellow Emperor Yao and Shun down clothes and rule the world, using come from to build the course of events.” 金晶芳著： 易传·系辞传新编详解, 黄山书社, 1998年10月“黄帝尧舜垂衣裳而天下治，盖取诸乾坤。” In other words, as early as the era of the Yellow Emperor, ancient Chinese costumes have been on quite a scale. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperors consort, Leizu. The Shang Dynasty (c.1600 BC-1000 BC), developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called chang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reached the knees. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time.Chinese rules of wtiquette regarding Hanfu started taking shape in the Zhou Dynasty, regulating from the royalties down to the commoners. As early as the Zhou Dynasty, garmens were already classified into sacrificial attire,court attire, army uniform,mourning attire and wedding attire. And different styles of clothes showed peoples positions and their states of origin.The Qin and Han dynasties witnessed the unification of China and its written language. Qin Shihuang, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty, established many social systems,including that of uniforms to distinguish peoples ranks and social positions.Chinese clothing developed rapidly during the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern dynasies. Some time before 265, the cultural and aesthetic views of the peoples in north and south China merged following mass movements of the population caused by frequent wars, Philosophical schools of thought influenced both peoples lives and the concepts of clothing design.During the Sui Dynasty, all poor people had to wear black and blue clothes, and only the rich people could wear other colours.In the Tang Dyansty, clothing was more varied than before because the state was more open to the outside world.What is worth special mention is that women of the Tang Dynasty did not have to abide by the traditional dress code. They were allowed to expose their arms and back, and wear dressed that absorbed elements from other cultures. They could wear mens riding garments if they liked. The clothes for women, in particular, changed rapidly. When a new style appeared, many people followed.Casual wear appeared during the Song Dynasty, and clothes were simple and elegant. But during this dynasty, it became fashionable for women to bind their feet in order to keep them small. Women were thought to be more beautiful with their tiny feetonly three inches long. During the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongolian ethnic group, known as the people on horseback, was in power. The simple and unadorned style of clothing was mainly a combination of Mongolian and Han influences.Dramatic changes took place during the Ming Dynasty. There was no limitation to one style and natural beauty was advocated, thus bringing vigor and bitality to clothing culture. 廖华英著： 中国文化概况, 外语教学与研究出版社, 2012年1月4. The Disappearance of HanfuHanfu disappeared at the beginning of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The Qing Dynasty was founded not by Han Chinese who form the overwhelming majority of the population of China proper, but by the Manchus. Taking advantage of the political instability and frequent popular rebellions convulsing China, the highly organized military forces of the Manchus swept into the Ming capital of Beijing in 1644 (which itself had earlier fallen to rebel forces under Li Zicheng), and formed the Qing Dynasty.The Manchus foresaw that they would have great difficulty ruling the Han Chinese, who outnumbered them vastly and had a more sophisticated culture. Soon after the takeover of China proper, the Manchus forced the Han Chinese men to adopt Manchu hairstyle (the braid) and Manchu-style clothing (Qipao and Tangzhuang). 安文新著： 长袍马褂、中山装、西服, 文史天地, 2005年10月There was enormous resistance to these policies, especially against the braid, which required shaving the entire top front half of the head. (Chinese traditional dictated that removing hair was against filial piety because one received one's hair from one's parents.) Popular uprisings flaired up immediately, but those were put down brutally. Up to 30 to 50 million Han Chinese people may have perished in total as a result of the Manchu invasion and conquest. Enforcement of the policies was swift, brutal, and effective. Hanfu was replaced by Manchu-style clothing. Hanfu was still permited for women, however without the traditional support of the palace, women started replacing their hanfu clothing with styles that were influenced by the imperial court and Hanfu was completly gone within a century of Qing rule.After the fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1911, Manchu dress and the braid disappeared quickly in favour of western-style dress. .5. Today Peoples Negligence Misunderstanding to HanfuHan Chinese clothing civilization thousands of years of the same strain, the Qing period, even the cultural fault cut off 300 years, and now, people are particularly serious neglect of the Han Chinese clothing. Today most Han Chinese wear western-style clothing, and Han Chinese clothing is largely unknown.6. The Importance of HanfuHanfu plays an important role in the Chinese ethnic identity. It says, “In China, there is the grandeur of rites and social conduct; that is why it is called Xia. There is the beauty of dress and decoration; this is called Hua.” 5 刘利译注： 左传, 中华书局, 2007年4月“中国有礼仪之大，故称夏；有服章之美，谓之华。”The words Hua and Xia combine to form the word Huaxia, which is a name that is often used to represent the Chinese civilization.Chinese ancient culture, colorful costumes, and the nation is closely related to property. China has also been known since ancient times as “dressed on the country” and “Liyizhibang”.Han Chinese clothing is created by the ancestors through the hard work. Hanfu is our traditional clothing of the Han nationality and is also one of the outstanding Chinese culture. Hanfu is the love of our Chinese ancestors and it is one of the traditional essence of the Chinese nation.Hanfu is the crystallization of the high degree of intelligence and artistic talent in China. It can be said that thousands of years, Hanfu is the medium among members of society.7. The Reasons for Hanfu DeclineManchu's “Tifa Yifu” policyQing Dynasty, Manchu human carry out “Tifa Yifu” policy to better dominate China. As a result, Han Chinese tradition for thousands of years destroyed and our brilliant traditional costumes culture was coming to end in the late Ming and early Qing.Ignoring the recovery of Hanfu after Qing DynastyAfter the Qing Dynasty and the XinHai Revolution Chinese society was under long-term turbulence. People can not protect people's lives and they unintentional and uable to consider the spiritual dimension and restore the traditional culture. Hanfu failed to be recovered in time.The impact of foreign clothingWith the development of transport facilities, the state-to-state communications become more and more frequently. People contact with foreign countries and touch foreigh convenient clothing. Because of xenophilia, they import foreign clothing and foreigh clothing immediately became popular in the country.Today peoples negligence to HanfuIn the face of diverse social, people struggling to live or has become numbness of spirit and they usually do not know what the pursuit. Hanfu as a cultural symbol for ancient people, it has become less important to today people. In this way, the people slowly neglected Hanfu.8. Revival Movement of Hanfu8.1 The Implication of Hanfu MovementHanfu Movement, also Revival movement of Hanfu, referred to the movement of Hanfu, is a series of movement to propaganda Hanfu and Chinese traditional culture. Participants from around the world, mainly includs mainland China and other Chinese regions and the overseas Chinese, mainly young people and intellectuals. 张辛可著: 论汉服的复兴, 流行色, 2006年10月The main purpose of the Hanfu movement is to restore the Hanfus status of Chinese clothing and revive Chinese culture. The movement of Hanfu is the current revival of the entry point of China and the power links to link a variety of China revival.8.2 The Events of Hanfu MovementJuly 21, 2003, the Chinese youth of Australia "Qingsongbaixue" upload a picture according to homemade Hanfu. She is the first person to make Hanfu by herself in contemporary society.November 22, 2003, Wang Letian dressed in Chinese clothing to take to the streets and he became the first to be reported to the public which was dressed in Chinese clothing. This event is regarded as the beginning of the Hanfu Movement.March 11, 2007, during the two sessions, the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference member Ye Hongming proposed we should take hanfu as national clothing. China's NPC Liu Minghua proposed we should dress in Hanfu-style gown when Awarded the Ph.D., MA and Bachelor degree. Hanfu first entered the Chinese two sessions motion.April 5, 2007, more than 20 well-known site jointly issued a written proposal, recommending hanfu as the Beijing Olympic Games ceremonial clothing and the clothing of the Chinese delegation members. During the Olympic Games, many people dressed in Chinese clothing to meet the flame, watch the games and participate in activities.June 16, 2010, Nanjing hanfu Dragon Boat Festival worship accepted the CCTV English news chann